1966 Mustang convertible- brake questions - Ford Mustang Forums

bandit1 · #1 (**permalink**) 08-30-2008, 11:01 PM

I've seen conflicting answers (on Mustang forums,etc) regarding the questions below. I'd like to get a consenus. (66 Conv/I6/manual drum brakes/upgrading to dual master cylinder).

*Which brake hardware is correct for the rear brakes? I bought the H7047 for the front and the H7048 for the rear. But wouldn't the H7047 also be for the rear since F&R brakes (66 I6 Conv) are both the same size (9 x 2 1/4)? Sites below show 9 x 2 1/4:
://s228.photobucket.com/albums/ee82/steel3rivers/66%20Mustang/?action=view&current=Mustangbrakehardwarepossiblei ssue.jpg
Mustangbrakehardwarepossibleissue.jpg
://npd.dirxion.com/Main.asp
://www.macsautoparts.com/online_ordering.html

*Is my distribution block correct for my application (installing a dual master cylinder...previously single mc) on manual drum/drum brakes? Will it allow use of the front (or rear brakes) if rear (or front brakes) fail?
://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee82/steel3rivers/66%20Mustang/connectingbrakelines.jpg

*How do you remove the hub from the LF & RF brake drums...so I can put on the new drums?
://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee82/steel3rivers/66%20Mustang/RFdrumtopsideanglezoom.jpg

://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee82/steel3rivers/66%20Mustang/RFdruminsideview.jpg

*Where can I get a backing plate gasket for the LF and RF drum brakes? Is this also required for the rear?
://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee82/steel3rivers/66%20Mustang/LFgasketthatgoesbehindbackingplate.jpg

*My new brake lines have both short and long threaded ends. Are they different for a reason? Which goes where?

Thanks

auggie · #2 (**permalink**) 08-31-2008, 09:37 PM

I checked out google to see if I could find some articles on your question. Here are some links that came up with technical articles.

All About Ford Brake Systems - Mustang Monthly Magazine

1966 Mustang, Problems with Brake Conversion - Ford Mustang Forums

I also wrote to one of the mustang veterans on our site that owns 3 stangs including a 66 convertible with us link to your question. Hopefully, he writes us back soon.

Auggie

bandit1 · #3 (**permalink**) 08-31-2008, 10:34 PM

Thank you.

stang73 · #4 (**permalink**) 09-06-2008, 12:11 PM

I might be able to help you a couple of your questions. What allows you to retain one set of brakes if the other fails is not the distribution block but the dual mc. If you lose a brake line or a wheel cylinder and deplete the brake fluid in that chamber of the mc, the other chamber still retains its fluid because they are separate. When you step on the pedal the full chamber still operates its set of brakes.

Sometimes it can be hard to remove brake drums because the brake shoes need to be backed away from the drum. To do this you will have to turn the "star" wheel that is part of the automatic brake adjuster system, but you must turn it opposite its normal direction of rotation. To do this you will need to push the adjusting lever away from the star wheel. Use a brake spoon or an average size flat blade screwdriver. Stick it straight in the brake adjuster slot of the backing plate. Move the handle end either up or down. It will move one way fairly easily but not the other way. You DON'T want to move it in the direction it moves easily. That's tightening the brakes against the drum. You need to move it in the opposite direction. To do this, push the adjusting lever away from the star wheel with a long slender screw driver or some such tool while turning the star wheel in the direction that it wouldn't move before. If you back the star wheel off far enough, you will be able to get the drum off. Sometimes the drums will rust to the hub and must be PERSUADED to come off. You might need some WD40 etc. to break up the rust. Don't hammer on the drum. It's brittle and will break. Once you get the first wheel off this will all become very clear.

Good luck.