OK now how do I stop? - Ford Mustang Forums

markstre302 · #1 (**permalink**) 03-07-2007, 09:04 PM

I'm getting the kinks worked out of my simple little Powerdyne setup and have recently realized that Fox brakes suck.

Does anyone have any suggestions as far as good upgrade pads, or rotors? I don't have the ability to have the car down long enough to swap to a rear disc, I know I should and I want to, but I'll just have to get by with the drums for now. I do want to upgrade the fronts though without going to a big brake kit yet. I'm looking at the EBC pads, either yellow or red. Give me some feedback if you've used either.
Thanks,
Eric

Navymailman · #2 (**permalink**) 03-08-2007, 11:14 PM

I know exactly what you mean! I overpowered my stock brakes on my '90 LX with my Paxton supercharged engine. My '89 now sports a 4 wheel disc brake system, that was installed in my driveway in one full day. However I was able to score some used rotors and calipers for $260 from a 2003 stang, and the wheels from that same stang for $150 for the full set. Then I purchased a set of used 5 lug axels and lower control arms from a mustang shop on the cheap. The biggest challange is getting all the parts needed, so that the install can be done all at once with no surprises. In my case, having a friend who is the Tech Editor at 5.0 Mustangs magazine has its perks. As I was able to score a complete brake system from BAER Racing for my stang! GOOD LUCK!!!

must93 · #3 (**permalink**) 03-09-2007, 12:55 PM

Going with a hotter brake pad is going to be a very temporary fix! It will kill your rotors in no time! Save your money and buy the good brakes, if that is the master plan! I bought my m-2300 brakes from ford and it is the best money I have spent on my car, including the S/C!

BigEd · #4 (**permalink**) 03-10-2007, 05:43 PM

Stock brakes suck how; in what way ???

I have had to stop from 124 mph with no problem. I know ppl who still have stock set up on low 10 set ups.
I am upgrading the front this year (because I want too, not because I have too) to aerospace 4 caliper units. It takes about 40 pounds off the front of my car and I will take everything I can get out weight wise.

must93 · #5 (**permalink**) 03-10-2007, 05:50 PM

When your on a track going in a streight line they are fine to stop like that every couple of hours. But when I put my car on the road course the brakes where toast after 2 laps. And forget about driving hard on a winding road they just wont hold up. If you are just drag racing and you need them every so often it would be fine.

BigEd · #6 (**permalink**) 03-10-2007, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by must93

When your on a track going in a streight line they are fine to stop like that every couple of hours. But when I put my car on the road course the brakes where toast after 2 laps. And forget about driving hard on a winding road they just wont hold up. If you are just drag racing and you need them every so often it would be fine.

I completely agree if you are road racing/ drag racing (shoot any kind of racing) to upgrade the brakes some how.
But the original poster, does not say what he is using his car for. 'Stock brakes suck' leaves alot open or speculated. Are they mushy, to hard, burning up pads or rotors?
If they are mushy - did he change intakes lately since he put the S/C on?? Maybe he has a vacuum leak and is affecting the brakes.
There is a dodge master cylinder upgrade that can be done fairly cheap that has a larger cylinder bore. I know alot of guys go this route when they switch to manual brakes; I would check to see if the same m/c can be used with the mustang brake booster or call skinny kid racing, aerospace, bembro and see what they have to offer. Ford racing use to offer a really nice kit, but I think they changed to a different kind of pad which is not a nice as it use to be.

markstre302 · #7 (**permalink**) 03-11-2007, 05:10 PM

In response to how my car is driven, it is a street daily driver. The problem I run into is the horrible amount of fade I get with even slightly spirited driving. I nearly found out the hard way that they bite good for the first few hard stops and thats about it. I was just making sure the fuel pressure was staying up in a safe area near the top of the RPM range and at about 100 on the top of third (stock gears) I went to slow down for traffic and there was nothing there. Thank god there was enough room to slide past in the right lane. After about two minutes of cruising at 65 it stopped just fine again, but my rotors are now a pretty dark shade of blue and I get a nice pulse out of them at about 45. So when I say the stock brakes suck I am specificlly referencing their lack of heat resistance. For now the fix is going to be EBC or Hawk pads and Powerslot cross-drilled rotors that are going to be cryo treated, and also going to put all new shoes, hardware, and drums for the rear. After the big summer vacation I will try and find a wrecked 99-04 for the full brake and rear axle setup and go from there. The reason I worry about the brakes even though it is mainly daily driven is that there are lots of mountainous roads that we end up driving on often and they are taxing on the brakes. Hope this clarifys things a bit for everyone.

y2k4mk1 · #8 (**permalink**) 03-15-2007, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markstre302

In response to how my car is driven, it is a street daily driver. The problem I run into is the horrible amount of fade I get with even slightly spirited driving. I nearly found out the hard way that they bite good for the first few hard stops and thats about it. I was just making sure the fuel pressure was staying up in a safe area near the top of the RPM range and at about 100 on the top of third (stock gears) I went to slow down for traffic and there was nothing there. Thank god there was enough room to slide past in the right lane. After about two minutes of cruising at 65 it stopped just fine again, but my rotors are now a pretty dark shade of blue and I get a nice pulse out of them at about 45. So when I say the stock brakes suck I am specificlly referencing their lack of heat resistance. For now the fix is going to be EBC or Hawk pads and Powerslot cross-drilled rotors that are going to be cryo treated, and also going to put all new shoes, hardware, and drums for the rear. After the big summer vacation I will try and find a wrecked 99-04 for the full brake and rear axle setup and go from there. The reason I worry about the brakes even though it is mainly daily driven is that there are lots of mountainous roads that we end up driving on often and they are taxing on the brakes. Hope this clarifys things a bit for everyone.

Try reading this lots o good info here. http://mjbobbitt.home.comcast.net/mustang/5lug.html
Im doing my 85 now with a 98 cobra rear axle and 95 cobra frt spindles/calipers.
99-04 axle will be alot wider than what you have now. pretty straight forward swap once you get the parts together. good luck with it.

markstre302 · #9 (**permalink**) 03-15-2007, 07:56 PM

I thought you said there was some info there. I just spent like half an hour reading through that. It's alot of help, but I didn't realize that there were that many options for the conversion though. After reading I did decide to use the SN95 stuff just to keep it simple.
Thanks for the help y2k4mk1.

y2k4mk1 · #10 (**permalink**) 03-16-2007, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markstre302

I thought you said there was some info there. I just spent like half an hour reading through that. It's alot of help, but I didn't realize that there were that many options for the conversion though. After reading I did decide to use the SN95 stuff just to keep it simple.
Thanks for the help y2k4mk1.

No problem The SN95 stuff is the simplest way to go. Ive got my rearend installed adn about to di the frt. Gotta pull the mtr as Im changeing the K member at the same time. Its a projest car so im in no hurry