OK, then here's what you'll want to do:
Skip buying a stroker kit, cost way too much for the work, IMO, and you're hoping that the shop doesn't screw up the install, buy a stroker block (just the block) from
haneymotorsports.com and go from there. Their blocks are warrantied and you can sell your old one, or keep it for back up, or even scrap it. You will need to salvage the oil pump system, oil pan, and other things from the old engine though, or you can buy new ones.
Cheaper more milder route as it requires less modifications due to fox body designed parts:
Cold Air Intake (BBK and JLT are really good, stay away from ebay)
347 Forged Stoker block
Steeda # 19 Cam
94/95 SVT or SVO GT-40 Intake (you'll have to buy on ebay, I doubt ford has it, no online stores sell them, they're rare)
GT-40 X Turbo Swirl Heads
1.7 Cobra Roller Rockers
70mm Throttle Body
80 or 90mm MAF (try to get Pro M for a 94/95, yes they're made, fox body won't work)
42lb fuel injectors
Head Bolts (DO NOT REUSE STOCK BOLTS!!!!)
Lower Intake Bolts (DO NOT REUSE STOCK BOLTS!!!!)
Thermostat Housing (good idea to get a new one)
Thermostat (good idea to get a new one, stock 180 is fine)
8mm 94/95 Spark Plug Wires (steeda makes a great set, just make sure they're listed 94/95)
Spark Plugs copper tipped (stay away from all others, and look at the head stats to get the right plugs)
New Radiator Hoses (you'll F up some of the stock hoses on the tear down, and it never hurts to go all new)
New Water Pump (not needed, but highly recommended)
New Timing Chain set (you'll need this is the engine doesn't come with one, never reuse a timing chain)
GT-40 Upper Intake to Lower Intake Gasket
GT-40 Lower Intake to Head Gasket set
Head Gasket Set (stock is fine)
Timing Chain Gasket Set (will include water pump gaskets)
Water Pump Bolts (do not reuse the stock bolts, they may not retorque properly)
New Distributer Cap (might as well swap this out, you will not need the entire distributer though get an MSD or other if you want, but stock is fine)
New Ignition Coil (also not a bad idea to swap out stock is fine)
BBK Ceramic Coated Headers (these will not rust and look great, nor will they discolor)
Your Choice of Mid Pipe (X pipes make more power, h pipes sound a little better)
Your choice of Cat Back (make sure to get stainless steel, my favorite is Magnaflow)
**upper intake and valve cover bolts may be reused unless overly damaged/rusted
That's all you really "need" to properly perform the swap, now the exhaust, and a few parts isn't needed, but is highly wise to add in there if you want maximum power. That list will put you at around 320 rwhp give or take a few and will require almost no modifications to anything you have now, it's a direct swap. Also, port match the upper intake to the lower, and the lower to the heads, this will make a GT-40 upper/lower intake flow extremely well and nearly as good as a Eddelbrock but without the hassel.
Now if you want about another 10-15 rwhp get the following instead of the GT-40 Intake and GT-40 Heads:
Trick Flow Track Heat Intake
Trick Flow Twist Wedge Heads
Trick Flow Intake Bolt Kit
Trick Flow Head Bolt Kit
Trick Flow Intake Gasket Set (if not included)
Trick Flow Head Gasket Set (if not included)
Trick Flow 94/95 Intake Elbow
87-93 EGR Adaptor Kit (not sure of it's exact name, but something may have to be moved, the intake will specify)
****Also, with this kit you may have to modify a few parts elsewhere, that's the problem with fox body parts.
Now if you want to really go big and save yourself a lot of money, because an N/A engine will cost more than an F/I, get a Vortech S/C and get a 9-11 PSI pulley and you'll be sitting right around 300 rwhp without all the work, or you can add it onto what you already have and be sitting at around 400 rwhp with a stock Vortech kit, or 420-430 rwhp with a pulley upgrade.
302 build up.
Linear Mode
