| SN-95/New Edge Mustangs (94-04) Tech support for SN-95 Stangs. |
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10-28-2008, 04:45 PM
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Newbie
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 6
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noise work
I got a 03 gt and i thinking about trashing the plastic intake and getting a 99 cobra( don't know if it about up yet still checking.) and a 01 bullilt intake. I trying to see if anyone else has done either one and try to see what i'm in for. Thanks ya'll and have a good one. 
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10-28-2008, 11:39 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 378
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There will be no improvement by getting either intake, the only way to improve is to get a CAI, home made or aftermarket. The stock intake on mustangs flow fairly well, you can get a CAI to add a couple of ponys, or just run to autozone, get a K&N air filter, and remove the air silencer in the fenderwell (some people cut the end of the nozel back 3-4 inches to allow the intake to draw in cooler denser air), and wahlah, home made CAI. If you go aftermarket, BBK, C&L, and JLT make some of the best flowing CAIs, just stay away from the ebay crap, they're cheap, and have issues.
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Trinity 99 Mustang SVT Cobra 280 rwhp, 290 rwtq
Selena 95 Mustang SVO GT-40 250 rwhp, 275 rwtq (Under Reconstruction)
00 Mustang V6 (sold)
98 Mustang V6 (sold)
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10-29-2008, 10:49 PM
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Newbie
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 6
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Thanks. I was going to get a k&N system later. Do think the stock intake take road racing for a long time. thats what im looking to built a street legal road racer. The 1/8 and 1/4 miles kind burned out right now for me.
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10-31-2008, 07:15 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 378
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Well street racing is not something I condone, overly dangerous in just too many ways. Now if you're setting your car up for autocross track racing, then you're going to more than likely ditch your stock intake altogether. Your best option for that kind of racing is going to be a roots/screw based S/C. Reason being is that those kinds of S/Cs supply the power in the lower to middle power band, which means better power response in the core gears (2-low 4) which is basically where you'll be at doing that kind of racing. A roots/screw based S/C works in conjunction with a stock air intake, however upgrading to a CAI or power pipe, would but the best thing to do for performance.
Now for your car as it sits a K&N filter and removing or cutting the air silencer would be the best thing to do as it's going to yield the same gains as a CAI, it's only when you go boosted that you need the hair better air flow a CAI offers.
If you're looking to go strip racing, then look into a centrifugal S/C, they supply boost in the higher RPMs, which causes a small bit of lag in the lower RPMs (called boost lag), but that quickly dies out once you get in third, an continues to build all the way through most of 5th.
Now if you can afford it, the best way to go is a turbo, they suffer pretty bad lag if 1rst through early 3rd gear, but pulls like a beast after the fact as they supply the power in the upper RPMs.
Now all of these descriptions are pretty basic cause I'm just too tired to elaborate more at the time, so feel free to ask more about what you don't quite understand just yet.
Here's a good sum up:
K&N air filter/remove or cut the air silencer - stock/lightly moded
CAI - same as above, but more benificial on highly moded engines, or roots charged engines.
Roots based S/C - mounts on top of the lower intake, starts to spool between 1500-2000 RPMs, and supplies power till around 4500 where they start to fade out. M-112 (from the 03/04 cobras) and Kenne Bell are two types of roots based S/Cs.
Centrifugal - mounts off to the side of the engine, starts to spool between 2000-2500 rpms and continues to spool till around 5500 (depending on model, some go as high as 7000). More effective at making power than roots based S/Cs, in other words a 9 psi centrifugal will make a little more power than a 9 psi roots.
Turbos - mount similar to a centrifugal S/C, but use exhaust gases to spool the unit, so in other words it uses your engines power to make more power. Suffers severe lag down low, as they don't effeciently spool till around 2500-3000 RPMs, but will effeciently spool as high as your cam allows, and has massive peak power gains.
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11-02-2008, 12:22 AM
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Newbie
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 6
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WOOOWW!!! thats a lot of info. Don't worry i've seen what happen in street racing. I was talking road couse racing. So for boosted cars a turbo the way to go, what about N/A guys. That why i was thinking of changing my lower and upper intake manifolds to something like a metal intake. Thanks for the info.
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11-02-2008, 06:20 AM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 378
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Well in your case it would be the lower intake and upper plenum, not much power to really be had there, maybe 8-12 rwhp at best. The key to unlocking the power in your generation is either an S/C (always a modestly easy route), or to go full h/c/i which would be taking the necessary steps to convert your 2V to a 3 or even better yet 4V engine, but then you're talking lots of cash there as well. N/A engines are not bad, however you'll loose to a boosted engine every time simply because boosted engines are just better at making power through every gear, and using that power efficiently.
A turbo yields the best results, however, again, they have two downsides, they're expensive as hell, and they take longer to boost, which may not be ideal for road based racing, espcially on courses where you barely get out of 3rd gear.
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11-02-2008, 10:08 AM
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Newbie
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 6
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Ok so the 3v and 4v heads will bolt up to my block I just got to worry about the ECM and wires. (Good thing i'm going to automotive school, this is going to fun!) Ok you know a lot more than me, heres a dumn question? I know the 3v heads are base off the Madza V-tec heads, but what about the cams? Are there low rpm lobes and high rpm lobes like you would find in imports engines?? Thank
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